Jacob & Co. Epic X Titanium: Has it Got the X Factor?

With no diamonds, no twin-triple-axis tourbillons or off-the-wall complications, the Epic X collection is Jacob & Co.’s answer to an everyday men’s watch. Aggressively contemporary, the Epic X Titanium is sheathed in an ultra-bold, yet totally original 44m Grade 5 titanium case and features a manual-winding skeletonised movement for the hours and minutes. The overall impression is one of transparency and airiness providing an exceptional view of the movement.

Showmanship as an art form

There is nothing understated about Jacob & Co.’s watches. This brand’s universe is about showmanship and exuberance, about statement pieces that are larger than life: the bigger, the louder and the more complex, the better. And in this category of hyper-luxury lifestyle watches, Jacob & Co. is unsurpassable. Recently launched, the Twin Turbo Furious model is packed with so many mind-blowing complications it almost levitates. Or how about the astonishing Astronomia Tourbillon Clarity timepiece with its 3D octopus entwining his tentacles over a triple axis tourbillon and rotating planets, or the Opera Godfather watch fitted with a music box playing the notes of the theme music of the film? (see below for some of the brand’s wildest creations)

So, what does Jacob & Co. offer men for more everyday situations? The Epic X collection seems to fit the bill and, although it is hard to describe it as a sports watch, it definitely exudes a sporty spirit. Designed by watchmaker Benjamin Muller, the Epic X watch picks up design cues of Muller’s original Spyder collection before he was recruited by Jacob & Co.

A uniquely shaped titanium case

The case of this Epic X model is crafted in Grade 5 Titanium with multiple finishes, a lightweight metal that combines strength and resistance to corrosion. The characteristic X pattern of the Epic X family reaches out from four points on the bezel to the lugs. Personally, the X looks more like the armoured legs of an insect astride the case, but that might be the spell of the octopus working on me. Whichever way you see it, the look is assertive, modern and masculine.

As befits a watch of this category, the case and X-shaped lugs feature satin-finished and polished edges. With its spacious diameter of 44mm and a case height of 12.3mm, the case offers a generous view of the movement – yet, it remains surprisingly wearable and comfortable on the wrist.

Transparent mechanics

The openworked dial of the Epic X Black Titanium model is a fine example of the art of skeletonisation in a contemporary key with an impressive amount of transparency. The airiness and openness of this dial allow you to enjoy the different parts of the manual-winding movement. Composed of 158 parts, the action on the dial takes place in the centre and left field and the first thing that will catch your eye is the vertically-aligned barrel and balance wheel. Holding the mobile structure in place, the sandblasted upper bridge – literally an extension of the lugs – spans the movement vertically and is hollowed out to ensure maximum viewing pleasure. The right side of the bridge hosts a plaque engraved with the name of the collection, while the brand name is placed in a cut-out on top of the barrel at 12 o’clock. Fitted with skeletonised hour and minute hands with red lacquered tips, the only numerals are the white numbers on the minute track placed on the inner flange.

Made exclusively for Jacob & Co. by Concepto (a respectable movement maker), the manual-winding skeleton calibre (JCAM02) for the hours and minutes beats at a frequency of 28,800vph and has a power reserve of 48 hours. The reverse side of the watch reveals the blackened bridges and the case back is engraved with the name of the watch and its creator, Benjamin Muller. Overall, the finishing and decoration of this movement are rather impressive, with fine perlage on the bridges, bevelled and polished angles and rubies mounted in shiny chatons. Very pleasant!

Another distinctive feature of the Epic X is its original honeycomb rubber strap. Perforated with a dynamic arrangement of hexagons, the idea behind this strap is to echo the openworked motif of the dial and also to provide comfort to the wearer. This strap is held in place by a titanium pin buckle.

This particular model, the entry-level version in the Epic X collection (which also comprises DLC-coated or rose gold versions) retails for CHF 18,000. More details on www.jacobandco.com.