Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. FP Journe Chronometre Bleu – Some personal thoughts about an icon (review with live photos & price)
My daily job, as the associate editor of Monochrome-Watches, is to inform you about new watches, to share the industry news and to review timepieces that we believe worthwhile. Meaning: I’m a watch journalist. However, this also means (for me, at least) that I’m a watch enthusiast and a collector my-self. On the scale of desire for watches, I have three categories: the new watches of the year that I’d like to own (after seeing them at the SIHH or Baselworld), the all-time classics that would look nice in every collection (e.g. a Submariner or a Speedmaster) and the proper dream-machines, the ones that I want above all. One of them (in fact, there are quite a lot… but this one sits on the very top of my wish-list) is a watch that could be regarded as very classical by non-aficionados but that however is filed with so many unique details: the now iconic FP Journe Chronometre Bleu and here is why I’m a sucker for this very special timepiece, illustrated with an hands-on review.
What is the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu?
The FP Journe Chronometre Bleu is not only a superb dial, a special case or an impressive movement. When you buy a FP Journe Chronometre Bleu, you buy a story, you go for a man and for the part of his soul he injected into the design, the conception and the assembly of this watch. What differs between large brands, such as the Holy Trinity (Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet), and the ultra-high-end independent watchmakers (Kari Voutilainen, Laurent Ferrier, FP Journe) is not the level of finish, the quality or the complications. In the first ones, you buy an heritage, an history, traditions (at least, that’s what marketing gimmicks tend to make you believe) but this comes from a brand, from a company. In the case of indy-watchmakers, you choose to enter into the brain of the designer, to share with him a part of his feelings and soul. It has a personal bias that makes these watches more special (once again, to me…). You have a direct link with the people behind the watch.
After this digressive part, let’s go back on the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu. In 2011, François-Paul Journe decided to introduce an entry-level watch to his collection. But he’s not a simple guy, with simple ideas. For instance, he has a watch with two balance wheels, working under the effect of resonance, his tourbillon is fitted with a remontoire d’égalité (a constant force device) and all his watches have cases, dials, hands and movements made of solid gold. So when the idea of entry-level came, it was not a simple idea. Thus, François-Paul Journe decided to use the Chronometre Souverain as a base but not in steel. That would have been way too expected. For the same reason, the dial is different and actually, the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu has the most complicated dial of the collection to manufacture. And fortunately, this watch doesn’t get rid of the solid gold movement.
Let’s first talk about the case. The FP Journe Chronometre Bleu is totally apart in the collection for 2 reasons. First, its size. It measures 39mm, which is an intermediate between the historical (but now discontinued) 38mm case and the bigger 40mm case. It might be only 1mm but it slightly changes the perception of the watch once worn. I always thought the 38mm cases to be perfect for classier, dressier watches. However, the Chronometre Bleu is not as dressy as a red gold / white dial Chronometre Souverain. It isn’t a sports watch either. Thus, 39mm is quite balanced and feels terribly comfortable on the wrist.
This case is also apart for another – obvious – reason. As you can see, it has a specific colour, darker than stainless steel or white gold (even darker than titanium), a very cold grey with blueish reflections. This comes from the use of tantalum, a rare and extremely strong metal (highly corrosion-resistant). Its use in horology and jewelry is very rare for a simple reason: it is extremely hard to machine and to finish. To date, few brands (including FP Journe, Audemars Piguet and Hublot, among others) used this metal to create cases. However, FP Journe is the only one that manages to create a case entirely polished in tantalum (and this is done in-house, at the case manufacture of the brand, completely integrated to the FP Journe processes). Tantalum has a rich colour, it’s extremely hard to scratch and it is heavy, a feeling that some appreciate on high-end watches.
The design of the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu case remains faithful to the Journe tradition: rounded bezel, solid lugs that goes downward on the wrist, slim fluted crown – the eccentricity comes from the material, not from the shape. The other specificity of the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu is its dial, its impressive, superb, profoundly blue dial. This chrome blue colour is obtained from multiple layers of blue lacquer, applied by hand and each polished to a mirror finish before the next one is applied. From the words of François-Paul Journe, this dial (also made in-house, at the dial manufacture) is the most complicated of the collection and a lot of them (if not the majority) don’t meet the commercialization standards. They are simply destroyed, in order to keep only the perfect ones.
The result is a dial that has an incredible depth, like if you could dive in it. The other effect of these multiple polished layers is to have a dial that changes colour, from an almost black tone to a vivid chrome blue under the sun-light. It is one of the 5 most beautiful dials of the actual production (and I assume my words. It is an assumption, not a personal taste). Apart from this finish and colour, the dial is full of little details that break the usual austerity of dress watches: an off-centered small second (at 7h30), the specific font of the numerals (and the fact that they are all entirely printed and not cut, next to the sub-dial), the milky colour of these numerals that seem to float over the dial, the duck-bill shape of the hands (typical to Journe)… it is extremely simple at first sight but so different when looked closer. It has a strong charm to it, unique to this brand and to this specific watch.
Behind the dial ticks a very, very nice movement. In the Journe tradition, the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu features a movement made (almost) entirely in solid pink gold – most brands are creating bridges and plates in brass or in German silver. Here, luxury comes to a pinnacle. This watch has not an ounce of precious material visible… except in its movement. The FP Journe Chronometre Bleu has a specific finish, compared to the usual Chronometre Souverain. The main plate feature a grain d’orge (barleycorn) guillochage instead of the normal sun-ray pattern. The gold bridges are finished with Geneva stripes and polished bevelled angles. For the rest, we found back the superb main bridge, with nice curves and enough openings to reveal the main technical elements (barrels, ratchet, gear train…). On the other side sits the balance wheel and the escapement.
Technical nerds might have spotted something strange in this movement: the absence of mechanical link between the center wheel and the escapement wheel – in other words, there’s a lack of wheels in the gear train… In fact, the gear train that links the escapement to the barrels runs under the dial rather than taking the conventional path across the caseback. This Calibre 1304 features a double barrel in parallel, for a more stable delivery of the torque during the entire 56 hours of the power reserve. It also features a variable inertia balance wheel that runs at 3Hz (21,600vph). As indicated in the name (chronometre), this movement is COSC accurate.
Overall, there’s so much to say about this apparently simple watch, both visually and technically. It is a demonstration of what François-Paul Journe has in mind and a superb execution of the concept of high-end, independent watchmaking. The best to notice is that this watch is rather well priced, at 23,000 Euros (including EU taxes). Considering the dial, the material, the shape or the execution of the movement, there’s no real competition. A Galet Square from Laurent Ferrier is priced over 30,000 Euros and is in stainless steel, a Patek Philippe Calatrava will be in gold and won’t have the same charm, a Kari Voutilainen is much more expensive… This FP Journe Chronometre Bleu is definitely unique.
Why I love the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu so much?
I told you, this watch is part of the pieces I’m dreaming of, without consideration of price, of availability or of time. I don’t know when (or if) I’ll be able to have one. What I know is that I’ll make my best to own one, one day, hopefully. Of course there are tangible reasons for this:
- a superb dial, extremely complex to make, extremely creative, very unique in its look and conception, with a certain eccentricity, however highly controlled to keep elegance and distinction
- a case made in a rather unique material, that gives it the look and feel of a sports watch, combined with the shape of a dress watch
- a great versatility and comfort on the wrist
- a movement superbly executed, in solid gold and intelligently conceived (hidden gear train)
- a reasonable size that makes it a potential daily-beater
- a very good quality / pleasure / price ratio
However, there’s more in the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu. More, not because of what it is, but because of where it comes from. This watch has, like every single piece made by independent watchmakers, a soul, a direct link to THE designer / watchmaker that imagined it. This watch isn’t the result of a marketing survey, where a bunch of interns and white-collars guys thought it could be good to have this element or this complication, just because they thought that the market is asking for it. I love the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu for being the vision of a man (and his team) of what could be an entry-level watch. If all the brands could have this conception of the entry-level… Well in fact, no, this would ruin my love for the Chronometre bleu. I love this watch for being so unique and so classic at the same time, just because some elements (not all of them) are different from the rest of the production. The eccentricity is restrained, controlled, leveled to an amount that makes this watch particularly subtle. I love the FP Journe Chronometre Bleu for not being a Patek Philippe or a Vacheron-Constantin (and I love watches from these brands). Conclusion: I have to have one… (and I know that my boss, Frank Geelen, won’t blame me for being so enthusiastic this time).
33 responses
Excellent article, I feel exactly the same about this watch as you do,
Very well written and explained, you really took me on a journey of understanding here. Great photography as well.
Thank you very much for this comment.
Thank you for this comment and happy that we share the same feelings
Thanks for the report!
Two questions:
– where to best buy this from, in Europe?
– I notice that it says “Geneva made” on the movement, but there’s no seal – any idea why?
Thanks in advance.
@Radu,
– there’s no other best place to buy it than in any of the official boutiques of FP Journe. Depending on where you are located, you should find one close to you (find them here http://www.fpjourne.com)
– The FP Journe are indeed entirely made in Geneva. Mister Journe however deliberately don’t want his watches to pass under the Geneva Seal (which is not an obligation, and made on request of the brands).
Hi Brice,
I’ve looked and the website and contacted the Paris boutique by email.
I know, of course, that the seal isn’t a requirement, and thought it must be a conscious decision to not do it – but any explanation regarding the why?
FYI – the price is 23000 with French tax, or 19170 without.
Thank you!
I think François Paul explains it very well in this interview here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ciWgA1QiMk (at around 21minutes)
basically he thinks it’s an old marketing story between PP and VC… And that the guarantee of the quality of the watch comes from the brand and the manufacture rather than from an external observatory. For François Paul thinks his brand his strong enough to prove the quality and the Geneva Seal is a mark of weakness for a brand that isn’t strong enough.
Hi Brice.
A great write up on such an excellent piece. Seeing this watch brings so many nice emotions.
Thank you for this comment.
The servicing for this is a killer… either in terms of ease or cost…
As an owner of a Chrono Bleu – and having met Mr. Journe a couple of times – I have to agree with this excellent description of the watch and the intent behind it. He is a guy who does not do shortcuts. In fact, he seems to enjoy making it as hard as possible for himself. This is certainly reflected in the CB.
Owners – would you please share any insight in terms of cost and general procedure of servicing this model? Many thanks – I’m strongly considering one, hence the question.
Radu, I believe I was told when I purchased mine (almost 2 years ago) that the service runs about $1800 USD.
Also, the watch was released in 2009, not 2011.
I was told by the Paris boutique that the Bleu is now 25.000 euros with tax. So that is quite an increase in just a few months.
Quite…. steep? Yep, it is!
I bought a CB at the FPJ boutique in Paris last April and it has hardly left my wrist since; none of my other watches get much love at all anymore.
On behalf of the entire team I can say that we’re all a bit jealous. Congrats with such a beauty on your wrist, and enjoy it in good health!
Great article Brice, just a question for me to understand. Why does FPJ use 18k gold base plate, choice for movement material ? Isn’t ‘gold’ soft than steel or brass ?
I ask this because no other manufacturer including PP, Rolex, ALS uses gold to produce movements.
any thoughts on this is well appreciated !
Brice, only found your article now. Beautifully written testimony to an amazing watch. I sincerely wish that you will be able to realise your dream of one day owning one. Even though the watch was launched in 2009, it is as beautiful now as it was then, a trait only very few designs – even of the “brands” – can withstand. Merry Christmas all!
I also just found this article and I agree entirely with your article. It’s totally on my bucket list ! I also want to wait it with a grey or brown leather strap – it looks amazing !!
** That should read “I entirely agree with your thoughts.” and “I also want to wear it with a grey or…”
Beautiful watch, and wonderful review. From this review (and others I have read) many people seem to feel this would make a good daily watch, but there is no mention of water resistance anywhere that I can find. I understand this is not a divers watch, but any idea what the WR rating is, and if there is concern about getting it wet?
Thanks for your comment Robert. Much appreciated.
Concerning the WR, FP Journe doesn’t officially mention anything about water resistance.
However, I’d say 30 meters / 3 bars – which makes it a daily usable watch… if you remove it when washing hands or taking a shower.
That being said, the Chronometre Bleu is like many other dress watches from PP or VC, a watch that needs a bit of attention.
What is your wrist size? I’m worried this might be a bit too big for my wrist, but in the photos it looks like a perfect fit for your wrist.
Many thanks.
Hello. I have a rather small wrist (16.5cm) and the Chronomètre Bleu is a very reasonable watch in terms of dimensions. Size shouldn’t be an issue. BUT… as always, the best is to go to a boutique and try 🙂
I bought my FPJ CB from the Paris Boutique last February and I only agree with all your observations and comments. Even compared to the Galet Square of LF, I find that the FPJ CB has more character and soul…and is much cheaper on top of that.
Lets face it: Laurent Ferrier has a cool narrative and background story around LeMans and his years with Patek – be he has never delivered the string of innovations and creativity that we have seen from FPJ. I see FPJ as the modern heir to Breguet.
Having said that, I am currently considering a Beat Haldimann H12 to compliment the FPJ CB. Both have similarities, both are fine independent watchmakers. Do you have an opinion on the Haldimann’s and how do you think it stacks up vs FPJ? Would appreciate your thoughts and comments
Thanks for your comment Juan.
Indeed, the FPJ is a superb choice.
As for Haldimann, his work is superb – even if all except exuberant. It is a true connoisseur’s watch, which reveals itself only to trained eyes.
He has a track record, he’s known in certain circles (not by the masses though). Considering such a watch is a passion story.
If you have emotions with this watch, it really can’t be a bad choice. The dials are superb and the movement, even though quite simple at first, are superbly finished – and technically interesting.
You can read all about the H12 here https://monochrome.website-lab.nl/beat-haldimann-goes-back-essential-new-steel-haldimann-h11-h12/
Thanks for your comment Juan.
Indeed, the FPJ is a superb choice.
As for Haldimann, his work is superb – even if all except exuberant. It is a true connoisseur’s watch, which reveals itself only to trained eyes.
He has a track record, he’s known in certain circles (not by the masses though). Considering such a watch is a passion story.
If you have emotions with this watch, it really can’t be a bad choice. The dials are superb and the movements, even though quite simple at first, are superbly finished – and technically interesting.
You can read all about the H12 here https://monochrome.website-lab.nl/beat-haldimann-goes-back-essential-new-steel-haldimann-h11-h12/
I share the same enthusiasm for the CB. I have it on the FPJ Kaki green strap which FPJ’s brother Laurent recommended to me. It really dresses down the watch to fit my lifestyle and the green plays well against the blue dial.
One watch that I feel the CB is commonly shopped against is the AP Jumbo 15202ST. Looking from afar, it may not seem like a direct competitor (manual wind vs automatic, leather strap vs bracelet, seconds hand vs no seconds hand, newer small brand vs large historical holy trinity brand. But both have model defining blue dials, 39mm slim cases, relatively close price points, demand>supply, notable movements, and both have interesting back stories (Genta/first luxury steel sports watch vs the eccentric genius FPJ himself).
That said, there’s something about watches from company which the legendary watchmaker and founder is in charge who doesn’t play by anyone else’s rules.
I purchased mine from the Paris boutique in April 2015. At the time, there was a four-watch waiting list in the U.S. but there was one available in Paris when I was there. Then the price was 23,000 $U.S and 23,000 Euro—pre-VAT. And the day I bought it the exchange rate was 1:1.09. So after the VAT rebate, lack of sales tax, and exchange rate, I saved about $5K over buying it in the U.S.—to say nothing of no waiting list. To this day, I wear it the second most of my watches—only behind my Lange 1815 Chronograoph (rose gold, second series)