Hands-On – De Grisogono New Retro Tourbillon Skeleton

De Grisogono might be an extremely respectable brand, but it’s generally better known in the field haute jewelry, as opposed to complex watches. The brand offers a few different models, but nothing that could ever tickle our interest, or so we thought… We were wrong. The chic, rectangular De Grisogono watch now houses an architectural Tourbillon skeleton movement and it looks stunning.

Introduced in 2015, the De Grisogono New Retro is a suave rectangular watch with stunning rounded angles. A unique statement of chic, its panoramic case holds two cambered sapphire crystals. Its winding crown is relocated and positioned at 12 o’clock.

This classic with a twist is now equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement, resulting in a mechanical sculpture consisting of watch components, space, light and shadow. The movement design features an in-line horizontal lay-out starting with (from left to right), the openwork barrel, the gear train and finally the tourbillon. All parts are suspended between imposing bridges paired with broad dauphine hands The skeletonized movement really allows the wearer to appreciate the inner workings of the watch.

The back of the watch is no less spectacular. Worth noting is the cool central spring, which is actually three springs in one: pull-out piece spring, lever spring and click spring. The tourbillon’s balance wheel features regulating screws and runs at 21’600 vibrations per hour, for a power reserve of 72 hours.

The Caliber DG31.88 is housed in a 44 x 51 x 12.3 mm gold case with pure, geometric lines. With its monochrome finish, it catches the light in a truly spectacular way. Despite these generous proportions, it wears extremely well with its stepped structure extended by thin elegant lugs. The two identical sapphire glasses are subtly connected by thin gold bands, allowing a panoramic view on the front, sides and back of the watch. The smooth, rounded shape makes it a highly visual and tactile object.

The New Retro is worn on a qualitative alligator strap closed with a safety triple folding buckle. It is released in a limited edition of 25 pieces in white and pink gold. For more information about De Grisogono, visit degrisogono.com.

Technical specifications – De Grisogono New Retro Tourbillon Skeleton

• Case: 44 x 51 x 12.3 mm – 18k white or pink gold – sapphire crystals – water resistant to 30m
• Movement: DG31.88 – hand-wound mechanical, manufactured with Concepto – 72h power reserve – 21’600 vibrations/h – hours, minutes, one-minute tourbillon
• Strap:  alligator strap, safety folding buckle
• Price: EUR 110,000
• Limited edition of 25 pieces in white and pink gold